Cape Hauy; the stats, the magic and finding willpower on nature's stair master
2025, January hike to Cape Hauy, Tasmanian Peninsula, Tasmania, Australia.
At an opening in the rocks on the side of the trail we peer down—photo below— seeing more directly below us the closer we get to the edge, just as my nausea rises the closer we get. People have been blown off Tasmanian cliffs and I am cautious knowing these perils of the wild. I hold on to a boulder and with still a couple of feet of rock before me I hold the camera out and down at the deep turquoise blue ocean bubbling around the rocks that seals are singing from.
The hike to Cape Hauy is life summed up; hard, beautiful, challenging, relentless, breathtaking, demanding, giving, joyful, uplifting and giving of the knowledge that step by step I can do amazing things.
The Stats
Cape Hauy is one of the capes in Tasmania’s Three Cape Track many tourists flock to visiting in order of Cape Roul, Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy. Locals will pick off each cape one at a time, particularly Roul and Hauy which are easily day hikes. Cape Piller is noted to be a 37 km return hike taking on average 13h; a long summer day for an experienced hiker. I did Pillar in the peak of my fitness training for Everest Base camp and as a result was able to complete it in 9h50m, with my stats recording it as 33.20kms. I did hurt my knee towards the end and our last 2 or so hours was at a much slower pace as a result, but that is a story for another post.
The Cape Hauy track starts from Fortescue Bay. It is listed as one of Tasmania's 60 Great Short Walks. The 60 Great Short Walks offer the best of Tasmania's day walking opportunities and are a fantastic place to start your hiking journey in Tasmania. Cape Hauy is one of the more challenging of the 60.
Yesterday’s efforts were far from my years of peak fitness which have been in decline since parenthood. My partner and I once hiked every weekend and now we are lucky to get a big hike in each year when an all-day childminding opportunity arises. Thank you visiting Grandparents!
Our stats today were a hike time of 3hours45min to complete the track from the Fortisque Bay camp ground. This was on top of our 1hour45min drive from Hobart.
My reference book notes Cape Hauy as a 10km walk taking 4 hours.
It is a retrace track, walking out and back along the same track.
It does have lots of access to extreme cliffs. I would only consider taking an older child that is sensible, listens to instructions and has had hiking experience.
This walk is one of the most spectacule ones you will come across. You will want a camera, plenty of snacks, 2 ltrs of water per person and;
In Summer, any visible skin will burn, I burnt a little even with a good sunscreen application. The UV in Tasmania on a clear summer day will be very high to extreme due to the clean air. Ensure you have a hat that cannot blow off in the wind and a wind jacket should the weather turn. Also pack your bathers as even the most reluctant beach swimmer suddenly finds the fortisque beach appealing after this hike on a hot day.
In Winter, it can go from cold to freezing, pack layers, gloves, a beanie and a waterproof jacket should sleet and or snow begin. The UV is usually low but not nothing.
In the other seasons it can easily—and within one day—dip into the season either side.
From the viewing platform at the end of the Cape Hauy track you can look down and see the 65m high Totem Pole. A single pole of dolerite rock that is popular amongst rock climbers and there was one there today hanging out on what looks to be a small column from up at the lookout but is incredible from ground level as shown in photos below.
“These pillars were formed by volcanic activity extruding magma from the ground, which when cooled at a constant rate creates rare hexagonal pillars.[9] These form via a slightly different mechanism to usual sea-stacks, and can be found at other rock-climbing sites around the state including Mount Wellington's Organ Pipes.” as noted on Wiki.
Magnificant isn’t it? I am in awe of such climbers but with no desire to do so.
The grade of the track is shown below in reverse. You begin at Fortesque Bay and spend close to an hour uphill to reach the track junction. This is the junction for where those completing the three capes join into Cape Hauy, it isn’t for other walkers to go onto. At the top of this first hill you can see the rest of your track outstretched before you as my photo below shows. Going down this first big descent is also the hardest to come back up, especially as it is in the last half of your hike. Also to note from this photo is that you don’t go to the very end peak of rock, the viewing platform and end of the track is at the second last peak, the sharper peak.
The Magic
Having hiked all over Tasmania and as far as Everest Base Camp I have come to know that I will always have a moment on the inevitiable uphill where it is difficult and I wonder what possed me to suggest such a thing. I am often the instigator of most of my hikes and so I remind myself that I wanted this. And, I knew, from experience that I will reach this point where having stayed at home with my bum on a couch and nose in a book feels like a much more pleasant option. So how do I get through such a track where not much of it is physically easy?
I put one foot in front of the other, also knowing I feel better for the exercise, I am also joyous at reminding myself that slowly, however slow, but surely as one step at a time I can do this which inspires me to do so much more in life. I also know that looking out and seeing these images in real life is such a gift I am so grateful to have the ability to grasp and so I grasp it full of gratitidue.
And then the best bit happens…
We sit down at the midway point, often being the view point of the trek before we turn around and head back. We pull out our average lunch of a sandwich or wrap, we pour the hot tea from our flask and we look out over the world, at the most magnificant view and eat a simple meal. That gives me the warmest fuzzy feeling to think as magnificant as it is, it is also part of the mundane, the basic homemade meal I sit down for everyday, today I simply sit on a slightly different square of earth. This part of earth that has always been here just as has my patch at home. Part of the same earth, each mundane and magnificant in their own way.
Then I pack up my lunchbox and begin the trek back a little revitialised knowing that it is me who decides what is magnificant and mundane and with that I always aim to carry this awe as far back into the familiar spaces as I can. I reach the end of the trail and know I did it. And now, I am ready to go back home.
Thanks for joining me on this adventure. Tell me how does a story like this make you feel?
If you enjoyed this a share goes a long way for homegrown writers - thank you.
Ta
Unless otherwise noted the photos are mine.
Resource Links:
Cape Hauy - Tas Parks Guide
The Totem Pole - wiki info
Tasmanian Pensulia - wiki info
ABC article: Why Tasmania's sun feels harsher during the summer months
This 3 minute video gives more info on the dolerite rock and showcases more climbers of the Totem Pole:
How spectacular views! Thanks for providing a little escape to my day-to-day city life.
Breathtaking views!